Authentic Indian Food?

On being offered a keema masala dosa at a lunch buffet in Pune recently, I thought,"Damn! I can't even order a dosa any longer and expect the authentic version on my plate". Having spent my childhood days in Mysore, where idlis and dosas were staple fare, I find myself in the role of a purist. I expect the dosa with a filling of mashed potatoes with the uniquely South Indian seasoning of mustard seeds and curry leaves, and nothing else.

At other times, I remember arguments over drinks with friends on 'authentic' biryani: both Hyderabad and Lucknow claim this popular Indian dish as theirs, each pooh-poohing the other's biryani as being a pale imitation. It is another matter that the biryani has evolved further into further different versions, each uniquely delicious.

However, if you look at the history of India you will realize there is no such thing as authentic Indian cuisine. In its long history, India has never discarded a foreign cuisine that entered its shores; instead, it was made Indian and became part of its rich cuisine. Kababs and samosas came along with the Mughals from Persia. Over the years, they were made our own.

While the samosa is related to the sambousek, in India they are now filled with spiced potato instead of minced meat or dry fruits like the original. Kababs and biryanis were recreated in the alleys and royal kitchens of Lucknow, Delhi and Hyderabad. The famous Kakori Kababs and the Dum Pukht Biryani are Indian creations crafted from the 'authentic' Persian pilafs and kebabs the Mughals brought into this country.

Indian foods considerably differ from state to state. Madhur Jaffrey in A Taste of India is at her evocative best as she describes the variety of ingredients, cooking techniques, and dishes native to every region in Indian. South Indian cooking uses steaming and fermentation, while the North rarely uses steam. Chapatis are made on griddles in the North, while tandoors are a relatively recent import from the North-West. Even within States, some foods are cooked only by special communities: the Moplars of Kerala, the Parsis in Gujarat, and the Chettiars of Tamil Nadu come to mind. For a period of time, recipes were passed from one generation to the other without change. Then came Independence.

As these princely states came together to become India, foods began to slowly percolate across regions. They were adapted to suit local tastes, especially when served in restaurants in other States. Which probably explains the keema dosa for meat-loving patrons! In any case, the masala dosa can't have been in its current form for long. Remember the potato itself is a recent import and came into India only after the British. What did they fill inside the samosa and the dosa before that?

I also wonder how mutton curry was made before tomatoes and chillies reached our shores from the Americas. Did the hot Kolhapuri fare start with the bags of hot chillies that reached the Konkan shores on trading ships? Did they all use black pepper instead?

Right now, Balti Chicken and Chicken Tikka Masala are popular examples of Indian food in the UK; yet neither is native. While inspired from Indian cuisine, these dishes have been invented by South Asian chefs in Britain. We have returned the favor by Indianizing foriegn imports such as tea, coffee, and Chinese food. The ubiquitous 'Manchurian' on the menu of every street-side Chinese restaurant in India is an Indian invention. And, of course, no one boils tea with milk and sugar like we do to create chai!

The British in India enjoyed their Devilled Eggs, helped create the Masala Omlette, and started their day with an ample serving of Kedgeree. While the devilled eggs disappeared from our menus when the British left, the masala omlette continues on. The Kedgeree was an Anglo-Indian adaptation of the Indian khichri made of boiled rice, chopped boiled eggs, minced fish, and a lump of butter, all mashed together with salt, pepper, fresh coriander. This dish is rarely found outside history books now (Jennifer Brennan's Curries and Bugles provides a wonderful culinary tour through those days).

This evolution continues today, even in the Italian, French and Mexican restaurants that have begun showing up in increasing numbers in our cities and towns. My advice? Enjoy each dish for what it brings to your palate. Like almost everything else, our food has been undergoing constant change. What we think as 'authentic' is only defined by our childhood memories or what mom cooked. Don't frown upon the chicken tikka burger or the pasta with a distinct Indian taste! Your grand-children will probably grow up thinking of these as local food, no less Indian than pani-puri.

As for me, I am headed out to the new restaurant in town: Zara promises to serve 'authentic' Spanish food. Who can resist that? :-)

PS: Zara recently opened in Viman Nagar, right next to Symbiosis College, and boasts a terrific tapas menu (Ph: 4015911). Viman Nagar is turning out to be the new destination in Pune for foodies!