
Another welcome addition to Pune's growing dining options! Kokum, which opened in Viman Nagar recently, brings flavors of the Southern coastline of India to Pune in the form of a fine-dining experience. In fact, this is probably the first upscale South Indian dining place in town. And from my first experience, a must-visit for Pune foodies!
Entering the restaurant, I was impressed by the decor with its large wooden columns, lighting fixtures reminiscent of old havelis, the large brass lamp in the middle, and small bowls of water and flower petals everywhere.
We began by sampling their 'thirst-quenchers'. I selected the Khajoora Panaka, a date and tamarind cooler from Udupi, while my wife went with the Kokum Sherbet, a chilled and spicy cooler from the Konkan coast. Both were excellent. Incidentally, Kokum is the fruit of a tree that is unique to Western coastlin of India and is known for its cooling properties during the sweltering summer months. Tamarind is used for a similar reason in much of Tamil Nadu.
A couple of women dressed in saris cooked us a complimentary bite-sized rava dosas and banana dosas. They also put a variety of banana chips for us to nibble on as we perused the menu.
We chose the Meen Tava Fry, seer fish smothered in a spicy red marinade. We also ordered a portion of the Sukke Maas, marinated kid lamb cubes tossed with roasted coconut and Mangalorean spices. We loved both dishes. Please note: Most of the fish dishes native to Kerala come with bones, but the Meen Tava Fry is relatively bone-less.

After that came the Neer Dosas, delicate rice pancakes native to Mangalore, and the Shrimp Balchao with rice. The Balchao is a particularly unique Goan dish with shrimp 'pickled' in fiery red spices and malt vinegar. The Balchao was really hot, a little sour, a little tangy; we enjoyed every bit of it!

We picked their Dessert Sampler which has two different payasams, one made of rice flakes in thickened milk, another made with dal and jaggery, with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. Again, great stuff!
Jaggery, a type of unrefined sugar, is a product of cane juice where the molasses and crystals are not seperated. A version of jaggery, produced from date palms, is particularly special in Bengal during the winter months. It used to be an essential ingredient in the kitchen during my childhood days but seems to have disappeared now.
We were particularly thrilled with the complimentary glass of Sulaimani tea at the end as they processed the check. This was similar to the Kashmiri kahva, but with unique spices and fresh lime juice; very different and refreshing! This variation of black tea (like the Kashmiri one) came in with the Arab traders many centuries ago, and continues to be popular in coastal Kerala - at one time the gateway to this land of spice.
Kokum is located at Lunkad Sky Cruise near Symbiosis International School in Viman Nagar. Ph: 4015 9555. It is co-located with Zara and The French Loaf in the same complex (they also share the same owners).
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