Paris: Walking The Quays
Paris is a fairly compact city which is best discovered on foot. Even around our apartment, we discovered a treasure trove of history, not even counting the Louvre. We found the gardens of Palais-Royale in the neighbourhood. Once the Cardinal Richlieu's private mansion, it is hard to believe these quiet gardens once hosted key personae of the French Revolution who ate and drank in the coffee-houses here sparking debate and dissent.
On our first full day in Paris we decided to take a walking tour along the Seine. The Seine splits the city into two connected by many bridges which tell their own tales. Pont Neuf is the oldest one; it was the first to introduce pavements for pedestrians (at that time to protect walkers from horse dung rather than traffic!). Pont de la Concorde was built with what was left of Bastille after the storming of 1789. Pont Alexandre III with its gilded, opulent embellishments leads the way to Napolean's tomb. And Pont de l'Alma has its Zouave statue which has long been used as a flood warning - when the toes of the statue gets wet, the state raises the flood alert and closes the quayside roads!
We had ventured out early in the day towards the river through the Louvre. As we entered the Place du Carrousel, we got our first glimpse of the glass pyramid in the courtyard. I can understand why this structure was so controversial when it was built - it looks quite incongruous in the old-world surroundings.
Past the Lourve and on the riverside quays we encountered the most splendid panoramic vistas of this city. Trees lined the Quay as we walked on the Right Bank. Fresh leaves glistened brightly in the morning sun. The majestic palace of the Louvre on our side and the Musee de Orsay on the other side of the river added to the magic.
We crossed over to the Left Bank on Pont des Arts, a charming wrought-iron and wooden bridge and continued walking on the Left Bank Quay. Incidentally, this was the first bridge built solely for pedestrians. Vendors were setting up stalls with old drawings - scenes of Paris monuments, nudes, posters from during the World War along with used books, comics and maps.
We then took the Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cite, the larger of the two islands on the Siene, where the city of Paris actually originated in 250 BC. The bridge was completed in 1604; in those days peddlers and entertainers went there to seek a few coins, even duels were fought on it.
The island of Ile de la Cite had become a fortified city called Lutetia in 2000 BC and was connected to the right and left banks by wooden bridges before the Romans captured it. However, it was only in 1100 AD that Paris began emerging as a great city attracting scholars and artists from afar; kings and emperors began building the imposing cathedrals and other buildings during this time too. Even now, distances in Paris are measured from a point within this island.
We climbed down the steps to the riverside on the western tip of the island as the girl chased after some ducks. There were tulips blooming brightly in in the garden here as we passed the statue of Henry IV, known for his roving eye and his countless mistresses. This square with its little garden was built in his memory and continues to attract lovers.
We traversed the length of the island passing by Sainte Chapelle, known for Montreuil's stained glass. A few steps ahead, and we were at the Notre-Dame cathedral. An exceptional masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the Notre-Dame is breathtaking to look at. With intricate detailing and statues carved on it's tall exteriors, it is an obvious magnet for tourists. We got in line to tour the large cavernous interiors but didn't climb to the top. It is amazing to think that they had almost decided to demolish the building and only the popularity of Victor Hugo's Hunchback of Notre-Dame kept that from happening!
By now we were hungry; we got ourselves a sandwich, a chocolate crepe and a waffle and hungrily ate them in the gardens behind Notre Dame. With cherry blossoms and tulips in full bloom, the gardens were a pretty sight.
After crossing the bridge into the delightful second island of Ile Saint-Louis, we wandered aimlessly, admiring the many quaint cafes, creperies and bistros in the narrow streets. The gelato we bought was wonderfully smooth while the Le Baba aur Rhum, a Paris delicacy made of sponge cake dunked in rum didn't hit the spot.
We finally got off the islands at Pont Marie and made our way into the Marais neighbourhood. Marshland at one time, this is one of Paris' oldest and fascinating quarters. While most of Paris was over-hauled in the 19th century, this is the only area that preserves the narrow streets and styles of the Medieval and Renaissance eras.
We walked past the 15th century Hotel de Sens and part of the wall that once surrounded Paris in the 12th century and into a village called St. Paul which was filled with art galleries and antique shops. We bought some stuff from a friendly old lady who spoke about her trips to India before beginning our long walk back. The Marais houses the Jewish quarters of Paris; ironically, the same wall I mentioned earlier was once used to keep them out of the city. This area is also known for being the hub of the gay scene in Paris and is also home to the oldest Chinatown in this city.
The quays seemed even more beautiful during the evening as we walked back. By the time we reached the Louvre, a group of musicians were playing in the square outside in the fading sunlight. I had expected the temperature to be a little chilly in Paris during this month; however, it has been extremely pleasant. A far cry from the Pune summer left behind!
Next: Champs-Élysées & More
Prev: Bonjour Paris
Travel Tips: If you are staying here longer than a few days, carry an umbrella along with good walking shoes. While we have been lucky thus far, it can rain any time in Paris (like in London).
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