La Bodeguita Del Medio
Cuba has been a melting pot of cultures, especially those of Spain and Africa. In addition to the natural beauty of this Caribbean country, many tourists come here to immerse themselves in an experience straight out of the 1940s and 50s. Old American cars, the crumbling houses and narrow lanes of Havana. And of course, its rich tradition of music, dancing, cigars, cocktails and cuisine!
Note: Picture of Havana Market above courtesy Marian Reid in Go Travel.
Havana's La Bodeguita del Medio, made famous by Ernst Hemingway, has long been known as a wonderful gathering place for cocktails, cigars, and the local cuisine.The Palo Alto namesake opened in 1997 bringing the unique tropical atmosphere, Cuban specialties, rum-based cocktails and cigars right here to the Silicon Valley.
Complementing the cuisine is a collection of original Cuban artwork which creates an environment that is very charming indeed. The location at 463 California Avenue in Palo Alto is halfway down the block (the English translation of the restaurant's name is 'the bar in the middle of the block'). The restaurant with its banana-yellow walls also boasts of a cozy cigar divan and a patio out back for that moonlight smoke.
We began with the highly recommended Ceviche and Empanadas. The Ceviche of house-cured shrimp, key lime juice, coconut milk, black beans, cilantro, peppers wonderful. The Empanadas of shredded picadillo pork, roasted chilis, pepper jack, cabbage salad, coconut-roasted jalapeƱo sauce was impossibly light, non-greasy and awesome too.
We shared from two entrees (the portions are quite large making sharing easy and probably the best way to sample the fare here):
The Masitas of spicy roasted pork, white rice, black beans, cilantro, Rioja carmelized red onions were perfect too. Well marinated and flavorful to the last morsel!
The eclectic Tierra y Mar is a combination of very tender, juicy skirt steak combined with three giant, coconut-crusted tiger prawns on the plate. The sofrito mashed potatoes and avocado-cilantro pesto completes this wonderful dish.
After all that delicious food, we didn't really have space for more. However, having heard about the great desserts here, I had to order one tonight. The Flan infused with Santa Teresa orange rum was a fitting end to this exceptional dinner. Tonight, everything on the table exceeded my expectations. No wonder this place is still very popular after all these years.
I tried two different cocktails during the evening. Hemingway's favorite Mojito was very good: Bacardi limon rum, mint, sugar, fresh citrus juice and a splash of soda. The Hemingway Cocktail made of Bacardi limon rum, maraschino liquor, fresh citrus juice, and sugar served straight-up in a sugar rimmed martini glass was sweeter - I would recommend the Mojotos over this one.
Was the food authentic? The answer is no, and is not intended to be faithful to the island's hearty meat-based Criollo cooking. However, the use of exotic fruits and vegetables such as yucca, plantain, and papaya, with emphasis on seafood and the inclusion of one or two indisputably traditional dishes do reflect Cuban tastes. Above all, the chef's subtle way with citrus flavorings and spices is completely Cuban too; although one of the hottest chili peppers is named for Havana, island food explodes with flavor, not fire. Combined with the unpretentious ambiance and good service, La Bodeguita is an excellent dining option.
The Post Gazette points out that the Hemingway craze is now popping up in bars with Cuban themes from Mexico to Paris. Most of these La Bodeguita del Medio bistros display the replica of a handwritten note Mr. Hemingway wrote years ago, paying homage to two Havana bars where he battled writer's block with alcohol. "My mojito in La Bodeguita del Medio, my daiquiri in El Floridita," reads Mr. Hemingway's endorsement across a paper napkin.