New Chef At Fifth Floor

Michelin starred Fifth Floor restaurant has a new chef, again! This delightful restaurant located within the Palomar Hotel in downtown San Francisco has been a stepping stone in the way up for several nationally acclaimed chefs. Early this summer, Chef Jennie Lorenzo decided to move out and David Bazirgan, whose work I have admired in the past, has now taken charge of the kitchen.

With a new chef we also have a new menu. Given my previous experience in Chef Papa Resto, I was eager to try out David's new creations at the Fifth Floor. Bazirgan has done Brazilian, Moroccan and Provencal before, so he brings a lot of different genres to the plate.

They started me of with some warm bread and sea-salt sprinkled butter; the amuse bouche quickly followed.

Then came the Oyster with sea-urchin and puffed rice. Very interesting on the plate as well as on the palate.

The next course was Foie Gras with brioche and a sweet fruit jelly - an instant hit with me. Very luxuriously buttery-salty in the way only good foie gras can feel on the tongue.

The Sea Bass followed. Lightly fried and combined with bok choy in a vinagrette sauce, the gingery tangy taste worked for me.

The Risotto with braised oxtail and bone marrow foam was exquisite. Very different and interesting. Funny thing, oxtail! At one time, oxtail only came from castrated oxen; now almost any type of cattle is used even though some think the traditional variety have the most flavor.

The Duck Breast was served in a large portion with swiss chard and a melange of flavors and textures.

They brought me a pomagranate sorbet with pomagranate seeds as a palate cleanser. The dessert platter of cheesecake, green tea ice cream and macaroon quickly followed.


Overall, a very promising new beginning at Fifth Floor. Now to see if they can get the star back at this restaurant. Compared to Jennie, I think David cares more about the taste and flavor than the overall presentation of his dishes; tonight was a good night for me.

PS: Previous reviews of Fifth Floor here, here and here.