Traveller's Tales

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Epicurean in Beijing

Even business lunches in China can end up being quite a feast. This time was no different. My hospitable hosts had organized an elaborate lunch at Quanjude, the renowned restaurant that has being serving Peking Duck since 1864 when the Qing dynasty still ruled China.

Like is usual when dining in Asian restaurants, we were seated around a large round table with a revolving platter of exquisitely presented dishes placed in the center.

Dish after dish of fish, meats and fruits appeared. Slices of pear, jello-encased seafood, BBQ pork short ribs, sauteed spinach with peanuts, and much more. I will let the pictures do the talking!

Soups and fried rice were followed by more meats and vegetables in sweet and savory sauces. All exquisitely presented and every one of them delectable. The variety of taste, texture and flavor was a feast for the senses.

It was time for the house speciality - Peking Duck. I was presented with a certificate with the serial number of the duck - a running number from the time they have been serving roast duck to their patrons. This popular restaurant now sells over 2 million roast ducks annually!

The chef expertly carved the duck at the table as we admired their practised deftness of hand. A plate of the famed melt-in-your-mouth slices of the glazed, crispy skin arrived in front of us, followed by the duck meat which we greedily rolled within pancakes with hoisin sauce, sugar and spring onions. Finally came the soup made from the duck. Nothing goes waste here. The Peking Duck was amazing as always.

Finally came an interesting cream-filled dessert, a pastry filled with a sweet tasting meat and a fruit platter. Desserts in China seem to play a minor part in what is usually always a very elaborate dining experience.

In the evening we dined at Zen 1903, an upscale restaurant in Beijing's swish Legation Quarters. This area used to house foreign embassies at one time but now is the destination for gourmets in the capital city. This butterfly-themed restaurant serves upmarket Cantonese cuisine along with Peking Duck and some Sichuan favorites.

We sat under an impressive crystal chandelier as a series of steamed, stir-fried, BBQ and roasted delicacies made their way to our plates. This time there were more exotica such as jellyfish, duck's feet and duck's kidneys and I am happy to say I tried every one of them. We ended with a dessert made of egg yolk along along with a sweetened roll.

As you can see, it was another elaborate and satisfying meal in Beijing. Ming and team, thank you for being the perfect hosts as always!

PS: Posts from my previous visits to China:

Friday, December 18, 2009

Pune Dining: New Hot Spots

I have a lot of catching up to do! With my increasing travel, I have been reviewing more restaurants outside Pune than in this city I call my home. Hopefully, this post will quickly put Pune back on this blog. Let me begin by Momo at the Courtyard in Hingewadi: I went back to try their dinner buffet on a weekend. The live Chinese and Pasta counters enhanced the already elaborate buffet spread. The chef also turns out a mean pizza. And like always, I loved their desserts; they seem to have a very talented pastry chef.

I also visited Kareem's multiple times. In addition to their East Street outlet, they now have one in Dhole Patil Road, right next to Zamu's. The biryanis are robust, served in ample portions, and yet modestly priced. Ph: 26053374

On yet another day, I discovered the Bombay Duck at Rahul in Aundh. Bombay Duck despite its name is not a duck but a fish. This ugly looking fish has a powerful odour when dried; however, the expertly fried fillets at Rahul were excellent and I can recommend it safely to seafood lovers who want to try something different.

While I was away travelling, a host of eating options seem to have emerged in Pune. Here are the ones which are top of my list:

Cafe Maroo, an intimate little Korean restaurant has opened at Westend Plaza on New D.P. Road, Aundh. In addition to Korean green and herbal teas, you can find kimbap - Korean rice and other condiments rolled in seaweed, dduk - rice cakes, and bulgogi in their menu.

Coffee lovers rejoice! Aromas on Dhole Patil Road (opposite Madhuban) has brought gourmet Australian coffee into the city. Aromas is part of the chain popular all over Gold Coast and Brisbane in the Australian continent.

The good news just doesn't end. Pune's first microbrewery, 1st Brewhouse and its brewpub opened with fanfare at the Corinthians. Beer lovers can now sample four varieties of beer with retro rock and a variety of meat and veggie wraps and rolls - if you don't mind driving down the far end of town.

Other new openings and interesting discoveries:

Squisito in Koregaon Park. Yet another vegetarian-only Italian place that also has Mexican and Lebanese on its menu. 1 Jewel Tower, Lane No. 5, Ph: 2605-4005

Tertullia on South Main Road has reopened as a fine-dining restaurant. I love their pastries and coffeee but haven't yet visited them in their new avatar. Lane No. 5, Ph: 26151100

Bombay's popular Cream Center: For those who fondly remember its crowded namesake in Chowpatty, you can now sample their delectible Mexican nachos, ragda-patties and Channa Bhatura in Fern Hotel, Kalyani Nagar.

BBQ Nation opened its second outlet in town, this one open-air on the rooftop of the new Sayaji Hotel. Ph: 42121212

Another international restaurant chain brings Legacy Restaurant to Pune. Known for their Cheese Naan, Hazari Kabab, Chicken Methi Malai and Mutton Biryani in far-flung cities of Africa and the Middle-East, they have even brought their chefs from Dubai to make a good first impression. Lunkad Sky Station, Viman Nagar, Ph: 66410110

Westin finally opened in tony Koregaon Park, bringing with it some upscale dining options as well. Kangan opens daily for dinner and specializes in frontier cuisine. Prego, the fine-dining Italian restaurant looks promising too (Dec 2009: reviewed here). QBA promises to introduce the best Cuban delights to Pune. Mix@36 is the bar for whiskey lovers; they claim to have over 68 different varieties here.

The Great Kabab Factory comes into town in the newly opened Radisson Hotel. Their much imitated and unique concept of unlimited kababs, biryanis and speciality Indian breads in an upscale ambiance has been a personal favorite of mine ever since I first visited the New Delhi Radisson many years ago.

After Galaxy Grill, Corinthians now brings the second Greek dining experience to town with Salsa. However, for those not too adventurous, they have some Indian food on the menu too.

Then we have '96K' for some royal Maratha fare including the fiery mutton rassa with wade and patra fish. Incidentally, '96K' stands for the first 96 Maratha families who had their roots in Rajasthan. Really! What say Thakeray and Thakeray? Located in Sanas Memories, 927 F.C. Road, near Deendayal Hospital. Ph: 25679669

Finally, Cafe Boulevard in Hotel Kapila on Dhole Patil Road is getting good reviews for those out of good options late in the nights when you are desperate food and drinks at non-five-star prices. This restaurant is open 24 hours. Ph: 6644 6644 (Jan 2010: Reviewed here)

I will keep updating this post with links to more detailed reviews. I would like to hear from you too. Bon Apetit!

Other posts on Pune's dining scene:

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Dim Sum Heaven

I had less than two days to spend in Hong Kong, most of that time devoted to business. Sight-seeing was clearly not on the agenda this time, but I could not return without the yum cha experience of Hong Kong. Which is how I found myself at Maxim's on a Sunday morning, one of the most popular yum cha outlets in town. Arriving at 11 AM, we found outselves amongst a crowd of families, tourists and businessmen - all awaiting their turn for the city's primary gastronomic indulgence of tea and dim sum.

While most of the world uses the word dim sum, the entire dining experience is actually called yum cha, which involves drinking Chinese tea, dim sum dishes, soup and desserts. Maxim's is a culinary instition in Hong Kong having existed since the 1950s. The Beatles actually performed at their original restaurant in the 60s during a visit to the city. The Maxim's empire now has a variety of high-quality restaurants across the city. The one we were in today, the Maxim Palace in City Hall, is among their most popular.

Smartly dressed girls in embroidered pink uniforms gave us a number. Over the heads of the waiting people, I could the huge hall with its large windows overlooking the ubiquitous shorelines of Hong Kong. A large crystal chandelier cast a golden glow in the cavernous interiors crowded with happy families. It was only 50 minutes later that the girl called out our number; the appetizing smells wafting my way from the dim sum carts had already gotten me ravenously hungry and without much ado I settled down to dig in.

Gleaming gold carts came by with a variety of fresh steamed, fried and baked delicacies. All we did was point and pick as we slurped up the little bundles of pure bliss. Among the twenty-odd dishes that passed my plate, I can't remember one that I didn't like! Simply amazing! Some had a crunch in the palate while others were slippery little devils. Yet others surprised with their combination of textures and flavors, but every one of them was piping hot and absolutely terrific.

I had selected an interesting warm drink made of crysanthimum, lemon and honey. This was very exotic and refreshing too. I also remember having a soup in-between.

Finally, we ended with a dessert of cocunut jelly cubes and more tea. While I was completely satiated after that yum cha meal, I know this is something I want to repeat with my family very soon.

Late in the evening, I ventured out again to the harbour-front on the Kowloon side. As the skies darkened, the steel and glass towers began lighting up. It was a very pretty sight and it felt good just sitting on the shore-side, listening to the waves and seeing the Hong-Kong skyline come alive in neon splendor. I took the ferry back to Central and located a lovely, warm restaurant in the IFC tower. The Union Bar & Grill with its red brick walls and mahagony detailing looked inviting with its Xmas decorations.

The baked potato skins with cheese were nicely done and made for a good starter. The lamb chops I ordered were very tasty too. All in all, a great end of a quick visit to this historic port city of Asia.

PS: For some amazing dim sums in New Delhi, try this place.

Friday, December 11, 2009

The Fragrant Island

Hong Kong got its name from the many sandalwood and incense factories on the island during ancient times. Its history - having changed hands from the Chinese to the British during the Opium Wars - and unique geographical location makes this island more interesting and important than its small size would suggest. The Cathay Pacific jet from Mumbai landed on a clear, pleasant day and I was soon driving on a high-speed expressway to my harbour-side hotel. The limo even had wifi access!

Since it was already mid-day and I had slept all through the flight, I was feeling famished. I went down to the Cafe and got myself a juicy hamburger with a multitude of toppings - bacon, grilled onions, even fried egg! Soon, I was feeling much better and ready to explore my surroundings. I still had a couple of hours to kill and the ferry station was only a short stroll from my hotel. I went with National Geographic's recommendation and took the Star ferry, whose small crafts have been crossing the Victoria Harbour for hundreds of years.

Off we went from the Wan Chai pier to Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon peninsula before circling back via Central. Skyscrapers on the shoreline and the distant hills made for a great viewing experience as the bright setting sun reflected off the glass facade of tall towers in the distance. We passed by cruise ships and smaller boats as birds overhead flew home. The Victoria Harbour used to be a lot larger in the years past; however, increasing demand for land has led to frequent landfills reducing its size to less than a kilometer across now.

Hong Kong has an unique charm with its ultra modern buildings and roads jostling for space with its Buddhist temples, Chinese cultural icons and old markets. I liked the place more than I did Singapore.

In the evening, we dined at Harlan's within the mall of the awe-inspiring IFC skyscraper. The East Asian Games were coming to an end and tonight was the grand finale with a light and fireworks show in the harbour. This restaurant with its contemporary, warm interiors has excellent views of the harbour and Kowloon shorelines through large glass windows.

The Salmon Sashimi with Japanese salad and sesame citrus dressing was mouthwatering and set the tone for the rest of the dinner. The flavors of the sprouts in the salad with the sesame and salmon made for an amazing combination.

I then went on to the US Prime Beef Fillet with foie gras, French beans, truffle butter and port wine jus. The beef was perfectly cooked and tasted perfect. The combination of the wine jus and truffle butter significantly enhanced the experience. A foie gras lover, I was delighted with the decadent, buttery soft terrine on the plate too!

I shared a dessert platter of warm chocolate cake, chocolate soup and rum-raisin ice cream with a trio of creme brulee: Grand Marnier, Caramel and Green Tea. The creme brulee was particularly fantastic and the warm chocolate cake was quite good too. All this while, we had been sipping on some excellent wine: Chateau Lynch Bages Pauillac and the Dagromis Barolo Gaja.

The fireworks were lovely to watch and they were preceded by a flottila of junk boats that had been lit up in red. The sights of the fire and light display playing out right in front of us made the evening special. However, the best part of the evening were the long dinner conversations with a bunch of interesting people who I don't get to meet very often.

Wednesday, December 02, 2009

The Connemara in Madras

The Taj Connemara in Chennai is home to some unmatched culinary pleasure the city has to offer. However, what makes this hotel even more interesting is its intriguing history. Lord Connemara was the Governor of Madras from 1886-1902. As the story goes, Lord Connemara had a weakness for pretty young women and ended up in frequent dalliances with the fair sex. When the Lady Connmara chanced upon one such liaison, she walked out in a huff. Out of the Governor House into the only hotel in town for Englishmen: the Albany. By the time she left, the hotel had been renamed The Connemara in her honor. Incidentally, the hotel was built in 1867 and for the first twenty years was called the Imperial Hotel.

As I strolled through the hotel corridors, I was drawn to the framed black and white photos from those early days. The Connemara of Madras - with its colonial facade and small English garden, where nights fell to the sound of crickets and the whirr of ceiling fans, as the saabs and mems drew mosquito-nets down to keep out the annoying little predators.

People cheered from the vantage point of this hotel as Queen Elizabeth II passed by in a motorcade during a trip to India. The bar inside served up nimboo paani for the memsaab and martinis - stirred by the saab's koi hai! These were easy-going times with food every few hours starting with the Chota Haziri - or small breakfast, usually toast with tea and maybe eggs - served right at dawn. Then came a hearty breakfast that included fish, stewed steak with onions, eggs, curried fowl and rice with tea, coffee, bread and butter followed by Trichnopoly cigars for the saab. The tiffin or lunch was simpler; the afternoon tea with its cakes and scones, and finally the evening meal of soup, fish, side dishes, pudding and fruits. On special evenings, hushed laughter and the rustle of silks and taffeta alternated with the cultured clink of cutlery and the waltz in the Ballroom.

I returned to the Raintree restaurant for dinner, but the mosquitoes spoilt the dining experience. Hip Asia turned out to be the find of this trip. I wasn't expecting too much, and the fact the restaurant was almost deserted at lunch time didn't seem to augur well. But the food was a revelation. Right from the excellent salad - very cold, crisp with peanut and crystals of sugar - to the miso soup, maki sushi, teriyaki fried rice, fish, veggies and prawns, this was an amazing culinary ride! When I finally settl;ed down with the Thai dessert of water-chestnuts in coconut milk, I was completely satiated.

The only discordant note? The manager decided to take it upon himself to deny photographing the dishes. Even without a flash.